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Jacquard pattern

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Jacquard pattern – an old technique – become more and more unknown, but sometimes they are in the focus of fashion, just like now again, they actually are fashionably up-to-date. There are uncountably many varieties which not only are used for children's clothing, also for sport pullovers and jackets. The main reason is the shining colorful pattern of the ski and after-ski-models, which are pretty nice and nearly unbearable. Of course a little bit practice and patience is needed to knit a Jacquard knitting work. And if you get it on with pleasure, your work doesn't become monotone and surely work well. The first condition is to knit evenly. The following pages will show you the most simple methods to learn working the Jacquard knitting without any mistake. Here are two recent points: 1st Don't become entrapped to knit figure-like or fantasy pattern, like costume figures, animals, flowers, etc. …you easily get into exaggerations and tasteless "mishaps" will result. Rather choose stylistic or geometric pattern. 2nd Put great value onto the choice of color. Don't use equivalent colors or shadows. Play with the colors – use discreet, but fresh tones for baby clothing, cheerful colors for children's clothing, classical and sporty for men's pullovers, fashionable inspired combinations of colors for your own models. With one word: "compose" tasteful harmonies of colors. According to how large your motives are, according to the number of colors, one or another method of working can be chosen of the following.

Jacquard 1

I.If you knit-in motives in bigger distances besides or over each other, don't let the working thread, which isn't used at the moment, run on the backside otherwise too large loops will result. In this case use an extra clew for each motive at the row. Keep in mind always to cross around both working threads when changing the colors, so that no hole appears. Do also not stretch the thread too tight on the backside, otherwise the stitches deform.

II. If you knit smaller motives, which are regularly scattered over the grand, like i. e. the next standing dot pattern, do also use an extra clew for every dot and don't forget to cross the threads around each other when changing colors. III. If you knit smaller motives, close to each other (i. e. cock's treadle), then let the thread, which isn't in use, run along on the backside and do also here cross both threads around each other.

III. If you knit a pattern on which only one contrast-colored stitch appears in every row, i. e. on square patterns with vertical lines, it is recommendable to work-on the pattern lines with chain- or embroidering stitch after the knitted piece is finished – this method is easier and more precisely. V. If you knit medium-sized or even bigger pattern, close to each other or meshed, with 2 or even more colors, it may happen that the threads on the backside of the work entangle while knitting, loose threads can form between the stitches and that causes deformed stitches on the frontside. But to prevent this do slightly twist the threads around each other and knit like follows:

IV. At the fore side of the work: At the right stitch pull the used thread through after the first twisting, the not knitted-up thread is left lying on the backside, in a lax, not too tight fixture. At the backside: While knitting the left stitch are the twisted threads lying in front over the left needle, and after turning it the first time, the next used thread will be grabbed while pulling it through. The not knitted-off thread lies laxly twisted at the front. When using more than two threads can also the middle finger be taken as a help – or use a "short cord thimble" that takes all colored threads and leads them equally stretched to the work.

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