Before you finally choose your knitting example, take time to knit a work sample of your knitting example – however it isn’t this work sample, which you knit normally to measure the numbers of stitches in breadth and the rows in heightin centimeters. Only so you can compose your own opinion about the possibilities and the effect ofthe example after your form of knitting – especially if it’s a model of your phantasy. This sample wants to help you to decide a considered choice and to be familiar with the form of working of your example, before you begin with the real knitting.
Chain stitch beat-up in band length, at last crochet 4 to 6 chain stitches according to the band width. Now pull a foldover through every of the 4 to 6 chain stitches (see Tunisian stitch on side 118) and first let off 1 loop, then each 2 loops with each 1 foldover. At the following row pull one foldover through the 2nd and every following vertical chain member, at last pull a foldover through the following loop of the beat-up, then always let 2 loops off the needle with each one foldover.
Chain stitch beat-up in band length (also to be crocheted on an edge). 1st row: reverse with 4 chain stitches. pointure 1 foldover into the 3rd last chain stitch and pull trough 1 foldover, pointure into the following chain stitch and pull 1 foldover through, leaf 2 loops off the needle – each with 1 foldover. 2nd row: 1 foldover, pointure into the 2nd following vertical stitch member, pull through 1 foldover into the next following loop of the beat-up (or of the edge) and pull through 1 foldover, with each foldover leaf off 2 loops of the needle. Repeat the 2nd row continuously.
It's to crochet like the simple cross stitch, but before pulling through a foldover, one has to do 1 foldover each time, so that there are 5 loops on the needle, which are all to leaf off at one foldover. The row here has to be ended with a half treble and two chain stitches.
crochet like the simple cross stitch, but before pulling through a foldover, one has to do 1 foldover each time, so that there are 5 loops on the needle, which are all to leaf off at one foldover. The row here has to be ended with a half treble and two chain stitches.
For one fringe, cut about 5 to 10 threads (according to wanted fringe thickness) in double length plus 2 cm. Now lay the thread group together doubly, pointure with a crochet hook into the edge (into which the Fringe should be knotted in), pick up the middle of the doubly laid together threads and pull it through the edge; without pulling the crochet hook out of the loop, the thread ends are picked up and pulled through the loop. Now tighten the Fringe.
Athe place, where the button hole should form, 3 loops of the pattern are passed over with 3 chain stitches. According to the size of the button, the hole can also be worked over 2, 4, 5 or 6 loops. At the following row one has to crochet over the chain stitches like before.
Button hole – further view.
Is performed like a "double cross stitch", but only on each front side, that means either to crochet in rounds or in forward courses (cut the thread at the end of the row and start again at the beginning).
To be chrocheted on the edge of a crocheted piece or a stripe of fixed loops: 1 fixed loop, * pass over 1 loop with 1 chain stitch, put 3 trebles into the following loop, pass over one loop with 1 chain stitch, 1 fixed loop into the following loop. Always repeat from *.
*1 fixed loop per 3 loops (of the chain stitch beat-up or a foregoing row), 4 chain stitches, pull out the crochet hook of the last loop, pointure into the first of the 4 chain stitches, take the 4th chain stitch on the needle again and pull it through the first chain stitch (without foldover), repeat from *. The distance of the picots can optionally be changed.
To be crocheted on at the edge of a crocheted piece or a stripe of fixed loops: crochet 6 chain stitches, then pull one foldover, one after another, through each 5th to 1st chain stitch and afterwards leaf all loops off the needle with 1 foldover. Pass over about 2 loops of the edge and crochet 3 or more fixed loops between the picots.
Cut two round paperboards with a diameter that relates to the pompon thickness, and a hole in the middle. Lay both discs on each other. Feed two long enough threads into a darning needle and now, as seen on the picture, completely wrap it around both discs. The more wrappings, the thicker the pompon gets. Puncture with a pointy cutter between both discs at the outside edge and cut through all threads. Bind together all threads with a single thread and knot it firmly. Remove the discs and cut the pompon regularly. With the binding threads you can sew on the pompon.
Pompon – another view
Wind a thread round a paperboard strip, which is about 10 cm long and should be as wide as the tassel plus 2 cm, until the wanted tassel thickness is reached. Pull a thread through all windings among one side of the paperboard edge and knot it tightening. Cut all threads along the other paperboard edge and remove the paperboard strip. Wind the tassel firmly with a thread at about 1 1/2 cm below the knot and sew up the end of the thread unvisibly. Trim the tassel regularly. With the knotted ends of the thread, the tassel can be sewed on.
To be crocheted on the edge of a crocheted piece or on a strip of finest loops: * put 1 fixed loop into 2 loops. pointure with the needle into the last crocheted fix loop, pull 1 foldover through, then pull out the needle of both loops, pointure into the 2nd loop again and into the at last crocheted edge loop, pull 1 foldover through this stitch and the loop of the needle. Always repeat from * and thereby pull out the picotloops.